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When assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.